Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
